LED it is






green mojo lil Runt... purple mojo??

edit

I think all that water sitting around bubbling is giving you high humidity thus the powdery mildew issue. You can spray down but it will likely come back

nice

this is the first time I've had the flower light(s) running (only LED right now) since the original tests...

been sitting here nervously watching cabinet temps go up and up and up
79.6 flower 80.5 veg @ 1 hour 45 min (with both sides ON)

white plastic, wired, remote temperature "bulbs" IN direct lamp light.

for the past month I've not seen > 74.8F in veg
low: 65F off the top of my head/guess

my n00b goals have been: trying to keep <84F with no more than 18F swing (light on/off)
and that can/could be a reading NOT in direct lamp light


I assume those fish tank heaters set @ 71F aren't drawing much power

must resist the urge to look inside... opening either door effects the air flow massively
in fact, if I open (just) the VEG door it will kill ALL airflow through the flower side... not an option any more

well just. it looks like it you need to revamp your fan system. because your going to have to enter your rooms

Electrical PVC (it's gray) does not have the tapered threads like plumbing PVC does. You should be able to get a female adapter to use in place of the metal nut. You can either cut it like MR1 mentioned or you can just leave it as it is. I use that when I put drains in larger totes. I also have a battery operated liquid transfer pump that I use sometimes, but it is slow. The clear tube will grow algae after a few grows. If you are only using it as a drain and not as a water indicator, I would get black tubing instead. I would also be for cleaning my res every nute change, at least while you are getting going. While some people go an entire grow not changing out and cleaning their bucket/totes, IMO it is important to clean out the res every week or 10 days.

Two plants in that size tote are going to get too crowded--they are still quite small--imagine them at 4 times the size they are now. Overcrowded plants will produce less than less plants with more space. A space that is 20 x 26 really should only have 1 or 2 plants.

My plan is to time the lights just right. Assuming I get down there around 9:30 to 10pm I will set the VEG lights to turn on @9 but keep the flower lights OFF until 12. That way I have 2-3 hours to work in VEG before the lights (heat) kicks on in flower. Also if emergency arises I can open both doors and things will not overheat but might smell if there is a blooming lady in flower side

THG. The plastic parts were from the plumbing section so I assumes pipe thread. I will make up 1 or 2 extra tubs so I can swap out dirty tubs for clean every week to 10 days in a rotation. I will only have 4 over here in veg till I can clone and sex them (learn to do both) then I will pull any male and pick the best lady and then pamper her and her alone over here till it's flower time.

Thank you all for the suggestions, help and support!!

so after 9 hours of undisturbed airflow, the temps were 81.9F and 82.4F
this is with a 65F room temp.

assuming it doesn't get more than 2 or 3F warmer in summer (I'm in the basement of a central air cooled house) temperatures are off my list of worries.


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topped one more of the 4 last night.


<3 micro photo setting

looking @ the other two I've already done, topping seems to create a lot of good "clonable" shoots down lower on the plant; so I'm attempting to speed the process up and get good clone shoots going on all 4.


perspective shot:



.

Quote: Justa420Friend wrote in post #83

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My plan is to time the lights just right. Assuming I get down there around 9:30 to 10pm I will set the VEG lights to turn on @9 but keep the flower lights OFF until 12. That way I have 2-3 hours to work in VEG before the lights (heat) kicks on in flower. Also if emergency arises I can open both doors and things will not overheat but might smell if there is a blooming lady in flower side

THG. The plastic parts were from the plumbing section so I assumes pipe thread. I will make up 1 or 2 extra tubs so I can swap out dirty tubs for clean every week to 10 days in a rotation. I will only have 4 over here in veg till I can clone and sex them (learn to do both) then I will pull any male and pick the best lady and then pamper her and her alone over here till it's flower time.

Thank you all for the suggestions, help and support!!

---

lol absolutely

just off-set the two 16 hour cycles by 3 hours

but I have to plan it around my daughter's sleep pattern / my free time
etc etc

clone wars:


how young (size) can a shoot be to attempt to clone?

is a younger or older shoot a better candidate to clone?

closer to the top / bottom of main stem?

.


All I'm after is a clone to rush into flower and sex the "mother."

I DON'T want it to survive past sexing!!

I'll have plenty of time to pull another clone if / when I want to.

LOL seriously?

Noooobody here has any experience cloning? [keep a straight face]

y'all are going to learn how to do it from my posts and pics huh? OK


as I assume you have figured out already, I will forge ahead without guidance or warning if that's what I have to do...
but I'd much appreciate any nuggets of info you might have from your experiance on the subject.

.

As far as size I usually take medium sized shoots with a top and 2 nodes below. One node gets sliced off and planted underground while 2 remain above ground. Try to pick tops that aren't tiny and flimsy but do not have much resistance to bending. Also select shoots with close internodal spacing so the clones are compact and don't fall over. Although they can be propped up with a toothpick.

as the days / week pass, and I watch the plants grow and develop (remember these are the first plants I've ever grown) the clone shoots become rather obvious.
From ross' description, I need to wait a little longer for another node to develop.
[to be confirmed... 3/16"+ dia stem, 3-5" long, top + 2 nodes]

I'm also noticing that the "micro-cut topping" Ive been doing isn't as effective as a more substantial / decisive cut.
I re-topped two of the plants as the micro-cuts I made before didn't trigger the same reaction as the "deeper" cuts I made in other plant(s)

(very Zen of you MC family... teach by not teaching)

125W 6500K CFL
6" off top of dome, (18/6)
RW soaked in 5.5ph adjusted distilled water + HINT of RapidStart
CloneX rooting compound
no heat :(



5?? yes, I top-cloned the Runt just for fun/learning





this is how I've left the plants.
Is that good?
could I do better/different?






fan leaf pulled from below this cut

no, no heat as of yet...

inside dome air temps are 76F and rising

I'll check water temp B4 bed and then head out to pet store for pad heater tomorrow

idk wtf i'm doing lol
I just read and watch as much as I could and mashed all that info together and came-up with this (ALL)

.


- Assuming these survive 2 weeks and show some root @ that point; I can take them straight into flowering light (12/12)?

This will be done strictly from a "show me your SEX" standpoint, I don't want them to survive/produce etc.

- Do you think I will NEED to use more than just these 1.5" x 1.5" cubes?
(again, I just need them to survive till they sex)


----


Fluke-probed the RW and (standing) water
RW: 73.5F
water: 75.4F

warmer?


but these temps are light ON dependent
bet I could rig up a way to use the 25W tank heater not in use down below in the tote
maybe like a "double-boiler" .... hummmmm

.

yes, warmer



Temperature - The ideal temperature range for cuttings is 72°F - 80°F.
It is always better to have the root zone temperature at 76°F - 80°F while the canopy is kept at 72°F - 80°F.
The warmer rooting zone helps produce roots quicker, while the cooler canopy minimizes transpiration from the leaves.

If the rooting zone is too cold, especially during the winter months, then the cloning system should be placed on a heating mat that has a thermostat control set to 80°F. In winter, when the water temperatures in the pipes are cold, take care to allow the water to reach room temperature before adding it to the cloning system. Cold water on the cuttings or young roots will shock the clones and retard their rooting abilities. For the summer months keep the water temperatures below 83°F; failure to do this will cause the cuttings to rot. The higher water temperature increases the growth rate of root rot pathogens. Warmer water also holds less dissolved oxygen which is needed by the cutting. Lower dissolved oxygen always favors root rot organisms. If you notice that your cuttings are becoming slimy and soft make sure that these cuttings are removed immediately. This rot will spread to the other cuttings very quickly.

FROM:
hXXp://www.bghydro.com/BGH/static/articles/1205_cloning.asp